Best of Summer 2010

It’s Been a Good Ride

It’s a rainy day in Boston. It promises to be a rainy week. If this signifies the end of summer (along with the sudden appearance of pumpkin beers at the local liquor store) it may be time for a retrospective on the great beers that we’ve enjoyed these last few glorious months.

A glass of Mayflower Summer Rye

Mayflower Summer Rye at Deep Ellum

Mayflower Summer Rye

I’ve never had a beer at a mere 3.8% abv that was this flavorful. A good lemony citrus tang along with adequate hops. The rye acts as an anchor, surprising, at first seeming out of place, but adding the body needed to balance things out. A nice spicy finish runs into your next sip. Refreshes and satisfies. Another bottle, please!

Lagunitas A Little Sumpin’ Sumpin’ Ale

It’s a “pale wheat ale” but if you told me it was an IPA I wouldn’t argue. Aroma is glorious. Smells like hop heaven. Fresh, lush hop intensity: grass, grapefruit, pineapple, and other tropical fruit. Someone suggested mango: I hear that. The first sip brings more of the same. The wheat stands back, but maybe brings a little heavier sweetness. Crisp and refreshing through it all.

Dogfish Head Festina Pêche

Still loving this one, discovered last year. Very simple, in a way, though unusual. Lemony tart up front. The tartness makes the beer very palate-cleansing and refreshing, but doesn’t go too far. On the other hand is fresh peach sweetness. A very fruity, ripe sort of peach, as though you had just squeezed one into your glass. Some malt flavors present, but not vying for attention. Dogfish Head’s progressive experimentation hits the nail on the head with this one.

In Conclusion

It’s been a great summer for beer lovers. Let’s hope these ones show up again next year, along with some stiff competition!

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Southern Tier Oak Aged Unearthly

My usual partner-in-crime is abroad, so tonight I’m enjoying some old favorites, and cracking open one of my favorite beers for a review.

The meal is just some quesadillas with jack and cheddar cheese. I added a few spoonfuls of Xochitl salsa. I’m torn on this salsa: it has good roasted tomato and fresh jalapeño flavors, which I love, but some of the spices go in the Italian direction, and I have a pet peeve regarding salsas that taste anything like pasta sauce.

The beer is Southern Tier Oak Aged Unearthly. I’ve tasted quite a few double IPAs lately, and this is definitely one of the best, along with Hop Stoopid and Harpoon Leviathan Imperial IPA. Many oak-aged imperial IPAs have the same problem: the oak just gets lost behind the hop overload. Not at all in this case. The full and deep oak flavors, particularly the vanilla, stand out with as much potency as the sweet caramel and sugar glaze malt flavors. And of course there are the hops. Not as aggressive as you’d expect from a beer that was both dry-hopped and run through a hopback. Very fresh, herbaceous hop notes. Grass, grapefruit, and orange. There is a lingering bitterness on the finish, but it never overwhelms. A truly great beer.

As a micro-dessert I have a Celtic sea salt Béquet caramel. I’ve been addicted to these ever since I discovered them at South End Formaggio. A lot of salted desserts hold out on me, but this one has no shortage of delicious grainy salt mixed homogeneously throughout. The caramel itself is soft and not particularly sticky, making its texture almost as much a joy as the rich and buttery caramel taste.

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Six Burner Sam Adams Dinner 2010

Six Burner, formerly Firefly, just had their first beer pairing dinner. This place has been one of my brunch standbys for a long time. The Six Burner incarnation has switched from lighter bistro fare to comfort food, but it is as good as ever. Comfort food was definitely the name of the game at this beer pairing dinner. Let’s talk food!

Mac & Cheese with Caramelized Onions paired with Sam Adams Boston Ale

This pairing shows that they mean business. The pair works on several fronts. The sweet malts in the beer and the caramelized onion in the mac & cheese are similar flavors that complement each other nicely, while the hops in the beer provide the right contrast to emphasize the softer cheese flavors. Great.

Chicken Sausage with Fig and Orange Marmalade and Polenta paired with Sam Adams Honey Porter

The most unique offering of the night. I love figs, and they’re a classic complement to the honey in the porter. The heavier maltiness of the porter adds some depth underneath this relatively lighter dish. There is some spiciness in the polenta that brings the whole thing together. Great.

Beef Brisket Shepherd’s Pie paired with Sam Adams Black Lager

A tasty execution of a classic. It has a spiciness that I’m not used to in shepherd’s pie, but it works. The black lager’s roasty notes complement the dish but it is light enough in body to not weigh down the whole thing. Great.

Apple Crisp paired with Sam Adams Cream Stout

I’m assuming that the idea here is that the tartness of the apples matches the sweetness in the stout. Honestly the Sam Adams Cream Stout is a little light in flavor and body for my preference in the style. The dessert itself is good though, and stands out by itself as the highlight of this course. Good.

I had the chance to talk to the owner while I was there. She is planning on doing beer pairing dinners every month, with Peak Organic (meh), Long Trail (could be good), and, at my suggestion, Allagash (yay!) as a maybe. I will definitely be back, since overall, this dinner was Great!

Cold River Blueberry Vodka

A photo of the Cold RIver Blueberry bottle.

I’ve been exploring the craft vodka scene a little, and enjoying the results. I hope to do another post in the future about the nuances and varieties of vodka in general, but I still have a lot to learn. It’s hard to find good resources on this subject. Too many people dismiss vodka as simply “neutral” or “flavorless”, exasperated by the fact that many vodkas tout their “smoothness” in the way Budweiser advertises its “drinkability”, that is, as a euphemism for tastelessness.

In any case, let’s focus on a recent find that has been very good to me. Cold River is a craft distillery in Maine. They make two potato vodkas: regular and blueberry. I have a bottle of the blueberry vodka, and oh man am I loving it.

This is not your average flavored vodka. Many flavored vodkas are 70 proof instead of the usual 80 proof. This is because in many flavored vodkas so much sugar and artificial flavoring is added that it significantly reduces the amount of actual vodka. Cold River Blueberry is 80 proof, and has a very different taste than a sugary, syrupy flavored vodka. The blueberry flavor is a little sweet, but is more reminiscent of fresh blueberries, which actually have some tart and acidic flavors in there. Think about eating a blueberry fresh off the bush rather than the filling of a blueberry pie. The vodka itself has some gentle bread notes. When drank neat, the bread flavor makes you feel like you’re drinking a blueberry muffin. This is not a bad thing per se, a little strange in some sense, but who drinks vodka neat anyway? The stuff shines in cocktails, where the fresh blueberry flavor can be put to good use.

A martini glass with a delicious blueberry lemon drop cocktail inside.

My favorite way to drink this vodka so far has been in a lemon drop. No, not one of those sickly-sweet lemon drops bars seem to serve. This is a more sweet-tart approach. Here is the recipe I’m using.

Blueberry Lemon Drop

  • 2 ounces Cold River Blueberry vodka (or other vodka for typical lemon drop)
  • 1 ounce lemon juice (fresh preferred of course)
  • 1/2 ounce Grand Marnier (or other orange liqueur)
  • 1 teaspoon simple syrup

Shake on ice, strain into martini glass. Optionally, use extra lemon juice to wet the rim and dip it in sugar. If you happen to have fresh blueberries in the fridge, you definitely need to drop two or three of those in here too!

Blueberry and lemon are naturally a winning combination. Since our flavored vodka isn’t adding sugar, it’s easier to be sure you’re adding the right amount of simple syrup. All things considered, this is probably the best lemon drop I’ve had. Enjoy!

American Craft

Photo of the beer board inside American CraftAmerican Craft is a new beer restaurant in Brookline, replacing the ill-fated Roadhouse. Roadhouse was known for its expansive American craft beer selection. It was conceived originally as a barbecue restaurant, but a combination of staff problems and the shut-down of their expensive smoker due to community concerns stopped the venue from getting off the ground. Roadhouse temporarily reinvented itself as a New Orleans / Mexican place, but the plan was only to keep the place open until it could be reopened with a new concept.

I knew when I heard the name that only the food was to be reinvented. The American craft beer selection would surely be as strong as ever. On walking in I was happy to see that the two large chalkboards with the rotating tap lists were left in place. On the other hand, the large, open environment with two bars and tables in between was given a face lift. The idea was clearly to step up the class: numerous golden chandelier now light the space, and the red and gold damask wallpaper may even try too hard to emphasize this departure from the restaurant’s more casual predecessor.

In any case, American Craft is still cozy and and certainly promising. So how was the food and drink?

Victory Braumeister Pils with Tettnanger Tettnang. This is part of a series of variations on Victory Prima Pils, where each emphasizes only one of the four hops used in the original. Tettnanger hops are a German noble hop known for their floral and spicy characteristics. This beer is very clean and refreshing. Only a few bready malt notes are evident at the temperature it was served. The tettnang hops stand alone very well: they are a little dry but still have that fresher noble hop character. Still, this is no Prima Pils. Good.

Allagash Interlude. This is the most multidimensional wild ale I’ve had in awhile. The sour and sweet blend together seamlessly, creating one of the few sours out there that I might have a second glass of. Sadly I didn’t even had one glass, and only had a sip of my girlfriend’s (ok, two sips). Too complex to analyze with such a small taste, but I do believe there was some green grape or green apple in there, along with clear vanilla and oak notes. Definitely one to come back to. Great.

A photo of a glass and bottle of Avery 16th Anniversary SaisonHand-Cut Chive Fries with Beer and Bleu Cheese Fondue. I knew the beer would be good, so now, down to the food. The fries remind me a lot of Publick House, and I wonder if that is going to be a recurring theme. They are good crispy fries sprinkled with bits of green herbs. The cheese has a grainy texture (is this a common fondue thing?) but the flavor is very sound, with subtle blue cheese tones along with other cheeses. Maybe Gruyère? I can’t identify the beer flavor that is in the fondue, but I have no doubt it’s in there. Good.

Bear Republic Apex. Stepping up the hops for my second beer. I love Bear Republic’s Racer 5, so I figured I should try another one of their IPAs. Apex is a hoppy one with up-front earth, grass, and orange flavors. I feel like this one walks the line between IPA and Double IPA: it has more sweetness than your typical IPA, but isn’t as over-the-top as many DIPAs. At 7.5% abv, I think it technically falls into the latter category. Great.

Oven Roasted Trout with with Grilled Escarole and Spelt Ragu. The entrees arrive. The food here is visually striking. My trout is presented whole, from head to tail, upon a pile of spelt, grape tomatoes, wilted escarole, and some on-stem herbs. The skin is nicely spiced and crispy, adding the right balance to the not-firm-not-soft trout beneath. The escarole is surprisingly flavorful, adding the right touch to the plainer spelt it is mixed in with. This is definitely a fine dining dish, and while it isn’t something to write home about, it is well executed and tasty. Good.

Myers All-Natural Beef Burger with Mushrooms and Truffle Cheese on High Rise Challah Roll and side of Mixed Greens. Very few burgers make you say “wow” just from their visual presentation. A pile of shredded lettuce, diced onion and diced tomato sits on one open bun, the requested mushrooms and truffled brie on the other. The challah roll is soft enough to function as a burger bun (I am picky on this point) and the toppings all contribute nicely. The burger was ordered medium-rare, and may even have been on the rarer side of that, which to me is a good thing. After the loss of Bonfire, this may be my new favorite gourmet burger. Great.

Avery 16th Anniversary Saison. Julie and I split a 22 oz. from the bottle list after dinner. The menu mentions peach, jasmine, and honey in this farmhouse ale. Pours a gorgeous gold with champagne-like bubbles rising within. On the first sip you might mistake this for champagne. The flavor is fuller and deeper than a champagne can be, however. This is a sweet, delicate beer. The promised flavors are all present, but as nuances that you might not have picked out individually. Good enough that we grabbed a bottle from Provisions next door so we could have it again. Great.

Very promising, especially given that it is only their first week. I know I’ll be back to explore even more of their offerings. Overall: Great.

Lagunitas Hop Stoopid

Photo of a glass of Hop StoopidLagunitas has never let me down, so I figured it’s time to give them a review. Hop Stoopid is a dead simple double IPA. American hops galore, but clear emphasis on the grapefruit. Pine, pineapple, and other hop nuances provide the depth, but don’t stand out too much. The malt adds a nice bread and sugar flavor that reminds me a bit of sweet buns.

Really impressive for a beer that cost under $6 for a 22 oz. bottle. This a perfect standby beer. I foresee many more of these in my future.

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Extreme Beer Fest Pre-Party 2010

Lord Hobo logo

Though I’m not going to Extreme Beer Fest this weekend, the pre-party sounded too good to pass up. It was held at Lord Hobo; this was my third visit to this sprightly newcomer to the Boston/Cambridge craft beer scene.

The night was amazing! I showed up early, which worked out well, as there was already a long wait when my girlfriend showed up less than an hour later. Folks from Dogfish Head, Russian River, Birrificio Le Baladin, and Birra del Borgo were there to give a talk and provide tastings of some of their beers.

Since the special beers started at 7, and I showed up before 5:30, I had some time to try a couple other things. The night prior Lord Hobo had advertised 20 Stone beers on tap, and some amazing offerings were still available. At this point I sat at the bar and chatted with the other friendly beer geeks. At 7 the special guests gave a great talk, and the special beers were offered in 6 oz. pours. I had my name in for a table, and soon we sat down and had some dinner along with our many great beers. Some of the tables at Lord Hobo are more private, but we ended up at a larger table, which was ideal for socializing. I finished the night off with a great German beer off their usual menu. What a night!

It is hard to write a full review for any beer I had due to the sensory overload, but here are some initial thoughts / mini-reviews for what I had last night. Some of these were shared, and some were small tasting pours, so no, I did not actually drink 10 full beers last night!

Stone Double Dry Hopped Double Bastard. Insanity. Very aggressive dry hopping, very fresh. The drier bitterness from the standard Double Bastard still cuts through. The body still manages to hold it up. I was afraid I’d be unable to taste the later beers properly after this, but some water cleared it up. Great.

Stone 2005 Vintage Double Bastard. Closer to the more recently-brewed version than I expected. Maybe more mellow. Still has plenty of the vigorous Stone hop profile, with that less carbonated thick mouthfeel. Some sweet flavors in the malt. Do I taste mandarin orange in there somewhere? Want to explore it further, but who knows if I’ll ever taste this again! Great.

Russian River logoDogfish Head Palo Santo Marron. Aged in tanks handmade from Paraguayan Palo Santo wood. This is supposedly a brown, but I was thinking imperial porter when I drank it. A nice full-bodied roasty and dark malt affair, a little sweet and plenty thick. The wood flavor is unique and imparts a more natural flavor than oak. Beer aged in oak don’t taste like tree, but this does, and I like it. Incredible.

Dogfish Head Red and White. A Belgian-style wheat beer that is 15% Pinot Noir juice. Smooth, nicely spiced. Wine flavors fit right in: you get some nuanced dry grape and oak. More breweries need to try the wine grape thing. A little citrus flavor in here too. Tastes like you could session it, but surprisingly it’s 10% abv. Great.

Russian River Pliny the Elder. I had a lot of this when I visited San Francisco last fall. This may be the most yearned-for IPA in the world. I was focusing more on beers I hadn’t tried, but I couldn’t resist a sip. Big grapefruit, juniper, and resiny hop flavor. Similar to Green Flash West Coast IPA, but less on the resin, more on the fruit. Maybe some pineapple in there. Bready malt is present, but this is all about the hops. Incredible.

Russian River Redemption. A Belgian-style blond ale. The most easygoing Russian River beer I’ve tasted. Simple, smooth, sweet, and balanced. A little sweet malt, a little yeasty sweetness, a little clean citrus, a touch of honey, a touch of hops. Only 5% abv, which would be ideal if I had a whole bottle of this! Great.

Russian River Consecration. Back to the insane beers. I’ve had this recently, but I don’t remember it as being this good. It’s a wild ale, and the sourness is very aggressive. Mostly sour fruit, but also a touch of funk. It’s balanced out with an extremely generous quantity of oak flavor, which brings the smooth and full wood and faint vanilla flavors. Lots going on here. Deserves a full review when I have more time to analyze it. Great.

Birra Del Borgo Re Ale Extra. Italian beer! The Italian craft beer scene is relatively new, but some great beer is making its way into the states from over there. This was described as being brewed with orange peel and coriander. First sip shows that this is the perfect way to describe it. The orange peel tastes extremely fresh. I’d call this a spice beer more than anything else. Great.

Dogfish Head Burton Baton. 90 minute IPA blended with English strong ale. This was on my list to try if it was available. Tastes like an American double IPA: big pine flavor, grapefruit. Enough malt body to back it up. Most unique is the oak aspect, which adds the mellow wood flavor you’d expect. Nothing surprising, but a winning combination for sure. Great.

Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier Märzen. Bacon. So much bacon. Along with smokey and woody flavors. Backed by caramel and roasty malt. Despite the extremeness of the bacon and smoke, this has all the drinkability you would expect in a German beer. Great.

Lagunitas Hairy Eyeball

A dark beer in a tulip glassBeen taking advantage of the nice beer lineup at the Kinsale, since it is right next to my apartment.

This American strong ale is very dark for the style, almost black. Very sweet, dessert-like aroma.

Some chocolate flavor right off, with maybe some maraschino cherry, but more the chocolate side of the malt. A little roasty. The unique point here is the taste of burnt caramel. Maybe butterscotch too. Distinctly burnt, in any case.

Ultimately pretty simple, but nice. I think of this as a manlier dessert beer.

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The Devil’s Water

Photo of the Devil's Water cocktailTo take a break from beer, here is a cocktail recipe I’ve been experimenting with for awhile. I first tried it at City Bar in Boston, and while my recipe is a little different, I’ve kept the name.

The Devil’s Water

Shake it on ice, strain into a martini glass and enjoy.

The result is a joyous blend of tart, sweet, and spicy, with the rum providing the body and complexity . I imagine this cocktail would work with a spiced rum, or maybe even any rum, but so far this is my favorite variation. Enjoy!

Goose Island Bourbon County

A bourbon barrel-aged imperial stout from Goose Island in Chicago. Poured from their stately black-labeled bomber into a Burgundy wine glass.

I spent awhile just enjoying the aroma before even taking a sip. Lots of bourbon, with smooth sweet vanilla and other dessert notes (their site mentions caramel and chocolate).

The taste is also along these lines: still plenty of booze and sweet vanilla along with some dry hop bitterness and dark fruits, maybe raisins and plums. Incredible balance, but a slow sipper. The mouthfeel is smooth and creamy, only lightly carbonated. This would make a great dessert beer: I’ll make sure to have some chocolate on hand when I have this again.

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